Asia Travel Guide

Founded in the mid-nineteenth century, KUALA LUMPUR , or KL as it’s popularly known, is the youngest Southeast Asian capital and the most economically successful after Singapore - and it’s still growing: building sites abound and the city is awash with stunning examples of modern architecture, not least the famous Petronas Towers and the recently opened Museum of Islamic Arts.

It’s not one of Malaysia’s most charming cities perhaps: it doesn’t have, for example, the narrow alleys, bicycles and mahjong games of Melaka or Kota Bharu or the atmospheric waterfront of Kuching. But it’s safe and sociable, and with a population of nearly two million, it’s usually exciting in the day and always buzzing with energy at night. From a cultural standpoint, it certainly has enough interesting monuments, galleries, markets and museums to keep visitors busy for at least a week.

KL began life as a swampy staging post for Chinese tin miners in 1857 - Kuala Lumpur means “muddy estuary” in Malay - and blossomed under the competitive rule of pioneering merchants. But as fights over tin concessions erupted across the country, the British used gunboat diplomacy to settle the Selangor Civil War and the British Resident, Frank Swettenham, took command of KL, making it the capital of the state and, in 1896, the capital of the Federated Malay States. Swettenham imported British architects from India to design suitably grand buildings, and thousands of Tamil labourers poured in to build them; development continued steadily through the first quarter of the twentieth century.

The Japanese invaded in December 1941, but although they bombed the city, they missed their main targets. Following the Japanese surrender in September 1945, the British were once more in charge in the capital, but Nationalist demands had replaced the Malays’ former acceptance of the colonizers, and Malaysian independence - Merdeka - finally came in 1957.

Despite much modernization, much of Kuala Lumpur’s appeal - markets, temples and historic mosques - remains untouched. The city centre is quite compact, with the Colonial District centred on Merdeka Square; close by, across the river and to the south, Chinatown and Little India are the two main traditional commercial districts. One of the most prominent (and busiest) of KL’s central streets, Jalan Tunku Abdul Rahman, or Jalan TAR , as it’s often known, runs due north from Merdeka Square for 2km to Chow Kit Market; closer in, west of the square, are the Lake Gardens , while to the south lie the Masjid Negara (National Mosque), the new Islamic Arts Museum , the landmark Railway Station and the Muzium Negara (National Museum).

From Merdeka Square, the congested Jalan Tun Perak leads southeast to the Pudu Raya bus station, a kilometre further east of which is the Golden Triangle . This fashionable consumer sector is delineated by three main roads - Jalan Bukit Bintang, Jalan Imbi and Jalan Sultan Ismail - and contains most of the city’s expensive hotels, nightlife locations, modern malls, and the lofty Menara and Petronas Towers which, at just over 490m high, is currently the tallest building in the world.

Malaysia does not have the grand, ancient ruins of neighbouring Thailand, but its rich cultural heritage is apparent, both in its traditional kampung (village) areas and in its commitment to religious plurality. The dominant cultural force has undoubtedly been Islam, but the country’s diverse population of indigenous Malays, Chinese and Indians has spawned a fabulous juxtaposition of mosques, temples and churches, a panoply of festivals and a wonderful mixture of cuisines. In addition, Malaysia boasts fine beaches, as well as some of the world’s oldest tropical rainforest and most spectacular cave systems. Your first impressions of Malaysia’s hi-tech, fast-growing west-coast capital, Kuala Lumpur (KL), are likely to be of a vibrant and colourful, if crowded, place.

Traditionally, people have stayed just long enough to think about their next destination, but there are good reasons to stay a little longer: accommodation is plentiful and cheap, the food is excellent and its streets safe and friendly. Less than three hours’ journey south lies the birthplace of Malay civilization, Melaka , a must on anybody’s itinerary, while north up the coast is the first British settlement, the island of Penang , and its very appealing capital, Georgetown. For a taste of Old England and lots of walks, head for the hill station of the Cameron Highlands .

North of Penang, the premier tourist destination is Pulau Langkawi , a popular duty-free island. Routes down the Peninsula’s east coast are more relaxing, with stops at the sleepy mainland kampung like Cherating and the stunning islands of Pulau Perhentian and Pulau Tioman. The state capitals of Kota Bharu , near the northeastern Thai border, and Kuala Terengganu , further south, are showcases for the best of Malay crafts and performing arts, while the unsullied tropical rainforests of Taman Negara National Park offer trails, animal hides, a high canopy walkway and waterfalls.

Across the sea from the Peninsula are the Bornean states of Sarawak and Sabah . For most travellers, their first taste of Sarawak is Kuching, the old colonial capital, and then the Iban longhouses of the Batang Ai and Batang Lupar river systems, or the Bidayuh communities closer to the Kalimantan border. The best time to visit is in late May-early June when the Iban and the Bidayuh celebrate their harvest festivals with ribald parties to which everyone is invited. Sibu, much further to the north, is another starting point for more visits to other Iban longhouses and the idyllic Pelagus Rapids region. In the north of the state, Gunung Mulu National Park is the principal destination, its extraordinary razor-sharp limestone needles providing demanding climbing and its deep, cathedral-shaped caves awe-inspiring.

The main reason for a trip to Sabah is to conquer the 4101-metre granite peak of Mount Kinabalu , though the lively modern capital Kota Kinabalu and its offshore islands have their moments, too. Beyond this, Sabah is worth a visit for its wildlife, including turtles, orang-utans, proboscis monkeys and hornbills, while oceanic Pulau Sipadan has a host of sharks, fish and turtles, as well as one of the world’s top coral reef dives.

Temperatures in Malaysia constantly hover around 30°C (22°C in highland areas), and humidity is high all year round. The major distinction in the seasons is marked by the arrival of the monsoon, which brings heavy and prolonged downpours to the east coast of Peninsular Malaysia, the northeastern part of Sabah, and the western end of Sarawak from November to February; boats to most of the islands do not run during the height of the monsoon. The Peninsula’s west coast experiences fewer major thunderstorms during the months of April and May. The ideal time to visit is between April and October, avoiding the worst of the rains.