Asia Travel Guide

Ambassador Hotel Asian Food Centre , inside the Ambassador Hotel complex, between sois 11 and 13. Street-level canteen with about thirty stalls selling Asian and regional Thai dishes. Food bought with coupons, sold (and refunded) from a booth at the entrance. Inexpensive.

Cabbages and Condoms , Soi 12. Run by the Planned Parenthood Association of Thailand: good, authentic Thai food in the Condom Room, relaxed scoffing of barbecued seafood in the beer garden, and free condoms available to all. Moderate.

Lemongrass , Soi 24. Scrumptious Thai nouvelle cuisine in a converted traditional house; vegetarian menu on request. Moderate to expensive.

Mrs Balbir’s , Soi 11/1. Deservedly popular Indian restaurant run by TV cook Mrs Balbir. Specialities include the spicy dry chicken and lamb curries and the daily veggie buffet.

Nipa , 3rd Floor of Landmark Plaza, between sois 6 and 8. Tasteful, traditional Thai-style place with a classy menu of adventurous dishes, including spicy fish curry and several masaman and green curries; sizeable vegetarian selection. Last orders at 10.15pm. Moderate to expensive.

Seafood Market , 89 Soi 24. More a pink-neon supermarket than a restaurant: you pick your fish off the racks (”if it swims, we have it”) and then choose how you want it cooked. Moderate.

Suda Restaurant , Soi 14. Unpretentious locals’ hangout, open till midnight. Standard rice and noodle dishes, plus some fish: fried tuna with cashews and chilli recommended. Moderate.

Mah Boon Krong Food Centre , 6th Floor of MBK shopping centre, corner of Rama I and Phrayathai roads. Dishes from all over the country served at specialist stalls. Inexpensive. Sarah Jane’s , Ground Floor, Sindhorn Tower 1, 130-132 Th Witthayu (tel 02/650 9992-3). Long-standing restaurant serving excellent, simple northeastern food. Moderate.

Sorn’s , 36/8 Soi Kasemsan 1, Th Rama I. A laid-back hangout serving delicious Thai and Western dishes, varied breakfasts, good coffee and draught Amarit beer. Moderate.

Talat Samyarn (Samyarn Market), set back on the west side of Th Phrayathai, near the corner of Rama IV. Good range of inexpensive foodstalls, always busy with students.

Whole Earth , 93/3 Soi Langsuan. The best veggie restaurant in Bangkok, serving interesting and varied Thai and Indian-style food (plus some dishes for carnivores). Moderate.

Ban Chiang , 14 Th Srivieng, between Silom and Sathorn roads (tel 02/236 7045). Fine Thai cuisine in an elegant wooden house. Moderate to expensive. Deen , 761 Th Silom (although the sign indicates that it is 786), almost opposite Silom Village. Small Muslim café serving Thai and Chinese dishes, as well as Indian-style curries. Mon-Sat 11am-9.30pm. Inexpensive to moderate.

Himali Cha-Cha , 1229/11 Charoen Krung (New Road), south of GPO (tel 02/235 1569). Fine north Indian restaurant founded by a character who was chef to numerous Indian ambassadors, and now run by his son; good vegetarian selection. Moderate.

Madras Lodge and Café , 31/10-11 Trok Vaithi (soi 13), opposite the Narai Hotel, Thanon Silom. A five-minute walk off the south side of Thanon Silom down Soi 13, this simple café offers a long menu of delicious food from the subcontinent, including south Indian dosas. Inexpensive.

Ranger Ranger , Mahamek Driving Range, south end of Soi Ngam Duphli, by the Ministry of Aviation compound. Unusual location in a golf driving range, but the restaurant itself is on platforms above a lotus pond. Specialities include yam hua pree, delicious banana-flower salad with dried shrimp and peanuts; some veggie dishes are available. Moderate.

Ratree Seafood , opposite Thaniya Plaza, Soi 1, Th Silom. Famous street stall, with twenty or so tables, serving up all manner of fresh seafood and noodle soup. Evenings only. Inexpensive.

Sui Heng , just north of Soi 65, Charoen Krung (New Road). In a good area for stall-grazing, a legendary Chinese street vendor who has been selling one dish for over seventy years: khao man kai, tender boiled chicken breast, served with delicious broth and garlic rice. Evenings only, until late. Inexpensive.