Asia Travel Guide

Chong Tee , 84 Soi Sukon 1, Th Traimit, between Hualamphong Station and Wat Traimit. Delicious pork satay and sweet toast. Inexpensive. Hua Seng Hong , 371 Th Yaowarat. Not too hygienic, but the food is good. Sit outside for delicious egg noodle soup or good-value shark’s fin soup; fish and seafood inside. Moderate.

Maturot , Soi Texas, Th Yaowarat. In a soi famous for its seafood stalls, the fresh, meaty prawns and tom yam kung stand out. Evenings only, until late. Inexpensive to moderate.

White Orchid Hotel , 409-421 Th Yaowarat. Recommended for its dim sum of prawn dumplings, spare ribs and stuffed beancurd, served 11am-2pm & 5-10pm. Fairly expensive.

You Sue Vegetarian , 75m east of Hualamphong Station at 241 Th Rama IV; directly across the road from the Bangkok Centre Hotel sign. Cheap and cheerful Chinese vegetarian café, where Thai curries and Chinese one-pot dishes are made with high-protein meat substitutes.

Coffee House , east end of Trok Mayon, tiny stall that serves a wide selection of real coffees and other drinks. Moderate. Open 10am-midnight.

Dragon Eyes , Th Sam Sen, on the corner of Th Wisut Kasat. Small restaurant serving stylish renditions of standard Thai dishes - try the chilli-fried chicken with cashews. Open 6.30pm-midnight, closed Sun. Moderate.

Hemlock , 53 Th Phra Athit, opposite the express-boat pier. Recommended small restaurant with an interesting menu of unusual Thai dishes, including banana-flower salad, and coconut and mushroom curry. Good veggie selection too. Open Mon-Sat 5pm-2am. Moderate.

May Kaidee , across Th Tanao from the eastern end of Khao San, down the soi with the “Royal Fashion” sign. Simple, soi-side foodstall plus tables, serving the best vegetarian food in Banglamphu. Try the green curry with coconut. Shuts about 9pm. Inexpensive.

Tang Teh , corner of Samsen and Wisut Kasat roads. Unusual, quality Thai restaurant: fried catfish with cashews and chilli sauce and steamed sea bass with Chinese plum sauce are recommended; decent veggie menu too. Opens daily noon-2.30pm & 6-11pm. Moderate.

Yok Yor , Tha Wisut Kasat, Th Wisut Kasat. Riverside restaurant in two sections, which sends a boatload of diners down to Rama IX Bridge and back every evening: departs 8pm, returns 10pm. The food is nothing special, but the floodlit views of Wat Arun, Wat Phra Kaeo and others are worth the B50 cover charge. Moderate.