Asia Travel Guide

Mah Boon Krong Food Centre , 6th Floor of MBK shopping centre, corner of Rama I and Phrayathai roads. Dishes from all over the country served at specialist stalls. Inexpensive. Sarah Jane’s , Ground Floor, Sindhorn Tower 1, 130-132 Th Witthayu (tel 02/650 9992-3). Long-standing restaurant serving excellent, simple northeastern food. Moderate.

Sorn’s , 36/8 Soi Kasemsan 1, Th Rama I. A laid-back hangout serving delicious Thai and Western dishes, varied breakfasts, good coffee and draught Amarit beer. Moderate.

Talat Samyarn (Samyarn Market), set back on the west side of Th Phrayathai, near the corner of Rama IV. Good range of inexpensive foodstalls, always busy with students.

Whole Earth , 93/3 Soi Langsuan. The best veggie restaurant in Bangkok, serving interesting and varied Thai and Indian-style food (plus some dishes for carnivores). Moderate.

Ban Chiang , 14 Th Srivieng, between Silom and Sathorn roads (tel 02/236 7045). Fine Thai cuisine in an elegant wooden house. Moderate to expensive. Deen , 761 Th Silom (although the sign indicates that it is 786), almost opposite Silom Village. Small Muslim café serving Thai and Chinese dishes, as well as Indian-style curries. Mon-Sat 11am-9.30pm. Inexpensive to moderate.

Himali Cha-Cha , 1229/11 Charoen Krung (New Road), south of GPO (tel 02/235 1569). Fine north Indian restaurant founded by a character who was chef to numerous Indian ambassadors, and now run by his son; good vegetarian selection. Moderate.

Madras Lodge and Café , 31/10-11 Trok Vaithi (soi 13), opposite the Narai Hotel, Thanon Silom. A five-minute walk off the south side of Thanon Silom down Soi 13, this simple café offers a long menu of delicious food from the subcontinent, including south Indian dosas. Inexpensive.

Ranger Ranger , Mahamek Driving Range, south end of Soi Ngam Duphli, by the Ministry of Aviation compound. Unusual location in a golf driving range, but the restaurant itself is on platforms above a lotus pond. Specialities include yam hua pree, delicious banana-flower salad with dried shrimp and peanuts; some veggie dishes are available. Moderate.

Ratree Seafood , opposite Thaniya Plaza, Soi 1, Th Silom. Famous street stall, with twenty or so tables, serving up all manner of fresh seafood and noodle soup. Evenings only. Inexpensive.

Sui Heng , just north of Soi 65, Charoen Krung (New Road). In a good area for stall-grazing, a legendary Chinese street vendor who has been selling one dish for over seventy years: khao man kai, tender boiled chicken breast, served with delicious broth and garlic rice. Evenings only, until late. Inexpensive.