Asia Travel Guide

Ambassador Hotel Asian Food Centre , inside the Ambassador Hotel complex, between sois 11 and 13. Street-level canteen with about thirty stalls selling Asian and regional Thai dishes. Food bought with coupons, sold (and refunded) from a booth at the entrance. Inexpensive.

Cabbages and Condoms , Soi 12. Run by the Planned Parenthood Association of Thailand: good, authentic Thai food in the Condom Room, relaxed scoffing of barbecued seafood in the beer garden, and free condoms available to all. Moderate.

Lemongrass , Soi 24. Scrumptious Thai nouvelle cuisine in a converted traditional house; vegetarian menu on request. Moderate to expensive.

Mrs Balbir’s , Soi 11/1. Deservedly popular Indian restaurant run by TV cook Mrs Balbir. Specialities include the spicy dry chicken and lamb curries and the daily veggie buffet.

Nipa , 3rd Floor of Landmark Plaza, between sois 6 and 8. Tasteful, traditional Thai-style place with a classy menu of adventurous dishes, including spicy fish curry and several masaman and green curries; sizeable vegetarian selection. Last orders at 10.15pm. Moderate to expensive.

Seafood Market , 89 Soi 24. More a pink-neon supermarket than a restaurant: you pick your fish off the racks (”if it swims, we have it”) and then choose how you want it cooked. Moderate.

Suda Restaurant , Soi 14. Unpretentious locals’ hangout, open till midnight. Standard rice and noodle dishes, plus some fish: fried tuna with cashews and chilli recommended. Moderate.